Tatting whispers tales of delicate beauty, intricate knots tied with thread to form stunning lace. It’s an art form that transforms simple strands into elaborate designs, using surprisingly few tools but demanding patience and dexterity. Unlike knitting or crochet, tatting doesn’t build fabric through loops pulled through loops; instead, it constructs lace from a series of knots worked over a core thread, primarily the double stitch, forming rings and chains that are the building blocks of every tatted piece.
The Heart of Tatting: Knots and Threads
At its core, tatting involves creating a specific knot, the double stitch, which consists of two half-hitches, a first half and a second half. This stitch is worked onto a core thread, and by manipulating this core thread, the stitches can be slid along it and tightened to form closed rings or left open as connecting chains. The magic happens when these rings and chains are joined together, often using tiny decorative loops called picots, to create intricate patterns, motifs, edgings, and even three-dimensional objects.
The thread choice is paramount. Traditionally, fine cotton threads, often mercerized for sheen and strength, are used. Thread sizes vary greatly, indicated by a number – the higher the number, the finer the thread (e.g., size 80 is much finer than size 10). Finer threads produce more delicate, intricate lace, ideal for traditional doilies, collars, and handkerchief edgings. Heavier threads (sizes 10, 20, or even 3) create sturdier lace suitable for bookmarks, jewelry, or home decor accents. Experimenting with different thread types like silk, metallics, or blends can add unique textures and visual interest to tatted creations.
Shuttle Tatting: The Traditional Path
When most people picture tatting, they often imagine the shuttle. Shuttle tatting is the time-honored method. Shuttles are small, elegant tools, historically crafted from materials like bone, ivory, or tortoiseshell, though modern ones are typically plastic or metal. They are designed to hold a length of thread wound around a central post or bobbin and pass easily through loops.
The process involves two threads: the shuttle thread and, often, a ball thread for creating chains. The tatter holds the core thread looped over their hand, manipulating it to create the space through which the shuttle passes to form the two halves of the double stitch. The distinctive characteristic of shuttle tatting is the ‘flip’ – the crucial manoeuvre where the knot transfers from the shuttle thread onto the hand thread, allowing the stitches to slide. Mastering this flip is often the first hurdle for beginners. Shuttles typically have a point or hook on one end to aid in joining elements together through picots.
Advantages of Shuttle Tatting:
- Produces very firm, tight knots and historically accurate lace.
- Shuttles hold a good amount of thread, allowing for longer work without interruption.
- Considered by purists to be the ‘true’ form of tatting.
- Portable and requires minimal equipment.
Challenges of Shuttle Tatting:
- Mastering the ‘flip’ can be tricky initially.
- Adding new thread requires careful knotting or specific techniques.
- Can be slightly more difficult to undo mistakes compared to needle tatting.
Needle Tatting: A Modern Approach
Needle tatting emerged as an alternative method, often considered easier for beginners, particularly those already familiar with knitting or crochet. Instead of a shuttle, a long, specialized tatting needle with a uniform shaft thickness and an eye is used.
In needle tatting, the stitches (the same double stitch) are formed directly onto the needle itself. The tatter wraps the thread around their hand similarly to shuttle tatting, but the needle takes the place of the shuttle, passing through the loop and catching the thread to form the first and second half-hitches. Once the required number of stitches is on the needle, the core thread running through the eye is pulled, sliding the stitches off the needle and onto the thread, tightening them to form a ring or chain. Because the stitches are formed on the needle first, the ‘flip’ is not required, simplifying the process for many learners.
Advantages of Needle Tatting:
- Generally easier and faster to learn the basic stitch.
- Easier to use variegated or textured threads smoothly.
- Simpler to add new thread – just thread the needle.
- Mistakes can often be undone more easily by sliding stitches back onto the needle.
Challenges of Needle Tatting:
- Requires purchasing needles in specific sizes to match thread thickness.
- The length of a ring or chain is limited by the length of the needle shaft.
- Some argue the resulting lace can be slightly softer or less tightly knotted than shuttle tatting, though this is debatable and depends on the tatter’s skill.
Comparing the Results
While the fundamental knot is the same, subtle differences can sometimes be observed between shuttle- and needle-tatted lace. Shuttle tatting, due to the nature of the flip and tightening directly onto the core thread, often yields very crisp, firm rings and chains. Needle tatting, where stitches are formed on the needle before sliding off, might produce slightly softer or rounder-looking stitches, although experienced needle tatters can achieve very tight, precise results. Ultimately, both methods produce beautiful lace, and the choice often comes down to personal preference, learning style, and the desired aesthetic.
Building Blocks: Rings, Chains, Picots, and Joins
Regardless of the tool, tatting involves combining a few basic elements:
- Rings: Formed by making stitches onto a loop of thread held on the hand, then pulling the core thread to close the loop into a circle.
- Chains: Made using two threads (shuttle and ball thread, or needle and ball thread), forming stitches onto a core thread that is *not* closed into a ring. Chains connect rings and allow for linear progression in patterns.
- Picots: Small loops of thread deliberately left between double stitches. They are primarily decorative but crucially serve as points for joining rings and chains together. The size of picots can be controlled using fingers or a picot gauge.
- Joins: The technique used to connect elements. Typically, a small hook (either on the shuttle or a separate crochet hook) is inserted into a picot on a completed element, pulling a loop of the working thread through, and then passing the shuttle or needle through this loop to secure the connection before continuing stitching.
Practice Makes Perfect: Don’t be discouraged if your first attempts aren’t flawless. Tatting requires muscle memory, especially shuttle tatting’s ‘flip’. Consistent tension comes with practice. Start with a medium-sized thread (like size 20) and focus on mastering the double stitch before tackling complex patterns. Small, regular practice sessions are more effective than infrequent long ones.
From Technique to Art: Designing with Thread
Mastering the basics opens a world of creative possibilities. Tatters work from patterns, which use a standardized notation (e.g., R 4-2-2-4 Cl means Ring: 4 double stitches, picot, 2 double stitches, picot, 2 double stitches, picot, 4 double stitches, Close Ring), or create their own designs. Simple motifs like flowers or butterflies can be made quickly, while intricate doilies, tablecloths, or garment insertions require significant time and skill.
Modern tatting artists push the boundaries, incorporating beads directly into the stitches, using unconventional materials like wire or fine yarn, and creating three-dimensional sculptures and delicate, wearable art jewelry. The interplay of thread, space, and intricate knot work elevates tatting from a mere craft to a sophisticated art form. Whether using a traditional shuttle passed down through generations or a modern tatting needle, the process of transforming thread into lace remains a captivating and rewarding endeavour, connecting contemporary hands to a rich history of delicate design.
Learning to tat, whether with shuttle or needle, is an investment in patience and precision. It offers a peaceful, portable hobby that yields tangible, beautiful results. The delicate clink of a shuttle or the smooth glide of a needle becomes a rhythmic part of the creation process, a quiet transformation of simple thread into intricate, lasting beauty.