Tapestry weaving stands apart in the world of textiles. It’s not merely about creating fabric; it’s about painting with yarn, building images thread by thread. Unlike continuous weft weaving, where the weft yarn travels back and forth across the entire width of the warp, tapestry employs a discontinuous weft. This fundamental difference is what allows weavers to create intricate pictures, patterns, and narratives directly within the structure of the cloth. Each color is worked only in its designated area, making tapestry a uniquely pictorial medium.
The process begins with a loom, which can range from a simple handmade frame to a complex floor loom. The essential function remains the same: to hold the vertical threads, known as the
warp, under tension. These warp threads form the hidden backbone of the tapestry. The visible image is created by the horizontal threads, the
weft, which are passed over and under alternating warp threads. In tapestry, the weft threads are packed down tightly using a beater or comb, completely covering the warp. This weft-faced structure is characteristic of tapestry and allows the colors of the weft yarns to dominate the visual field.
Understanding the Basics: Warp, Weft, and the Cartoon
Before weaving commences, the warp is carefully wound onto the loom, ensuring even tension across all threads. The spacing of the warp threads, known as the sett, influences the potential detail of the final piece; a finer sett allows for more intricate work. Once the warp is ready, the design process takes center stage. Most tapestry weavers work from a
cartoon – a full-scale drawing or painting of the intended artwork. This cartoon is often placed behind the warp threads (or viewed alongside) as a guide, indicating where color changes and specific techniques should occur. Translating the nuances of a painted or drawn image into the gridded structure of woven threads requires careful planning and interpretation.
The Heart of Pictorial Tapestry: Discontinuous Weft Techniques
The magic of tapestry lies in how different blocks of color are introduced and interconnected. Since the weft doesn’t run edge-to-edge, specific techniques are needed to manage the joins between color areas and to create shapes.
Slits: When two blocks of color are woven side-by-side, meeting along a vertical line, a physical gap or slit will form if the weft threads simply turn back around adjacent warp threads. While sometimes used intentionally for design effects, unwanted slits can weaken the fabric’s structure. Weavers often manage slits by limiting their length or by sewing them closed from the back after the tapestry is off the loom.
Interlocking: To avoid slits altogether when creating vertical joins, weavers use interlocking techniques.
- Single Interlock: Weft threads from adjacent color areas loop around each other in the space between two warp threads. This creates a secure join but can sometimes produce a slightly raised ridge or a slightly blurred vertical line, depending on the yarns used.
- Double Interlock: Here, the weft threads wrap around adjacent warp threads *and* loop around each other. This forms an even stronger join, often resulting in a more clearly defined vertical line between colors compared to single interlock. It’s particularly useful for structural integrity in larger pieces.
Dovetailing (or Shared Warp): In this technique, weft threads from two neighbouring colour areas turn back around the *same* warp thread. They alternate turns, creating a jagged, tooth-like edge where the colours meet. Dovetailing produces a secure, flat join with no slit, but the shared warp can create a slightly ridged texture vertically. It’s effective for creating slightly softer vertical transitions or integrating small areas of colour.
Tapestry weaving primarily uses a discontinuous weft technique. This means each color weft thread only travels across its designated area within the design, rather than from selvedge to selvedge like in cloth weaving. This method is fundamental to creating distinct shapes and images. Understanding this difference is key to mastering pictorial tapestry, allowing for complex color blocking and detailed imagery unattainable with continuous weft methods.
Beyond simply joining blocks of flat color, tapestry weavers employ several methods to achieve shading, texture, curves, and fine details, truly bringing their textile paintings to life.
Hatching and Hachure
To create gradients, shading, or softer transitions between colors, weavers use techniques often grouped under the terms hatching or hachure. Inspired by similar techniques in drawing and engraving, this involves intermingling threads of different colors within the same area.
- Hatching: Short, alternating lines or dashes of two colors are woven side-by-side. From a distance, these dashes blend optically, creating the illusion of a third color or a gradual shift.
- Hachure: This often involves more elongated, interlocking triangular or tooth-like shapes where two colors meet. Think of fine lines of one color penetrating into the adjacent color area, and vice versa. This technique is incredibly versatile for depicting rounded forms, folds of fabric, or subtle shifts in light and shadow. The precise angle and length of the ‘teeth’ can be varied to control the blending effect.
Shaping and Outlining
Tapestry isn’t confined to strict horizontal and vertical lines.
- Eccentric Weft: While most tapestry weft travels perpendicular to the warp, weavers can intentionally pack the weft at angles, or even in curves, to follow the contours of a shape. This is known as eccentric weft. It allows for flowing lines and organic forms but must be used judiciously, as it can potentially distort the fabric structure if overdone.
- Outlining: Just as in drawing, a thin line of a contrasting color (often black or a dark shade) can be woven around shapes to define their edges clearly. This can be achieved by weaving a single pass of the outlining weft thread using interlocking or dovetailing techniques where it meets other colors.
Working with Texture and Materials
The choice of materials significantly impacts the final artwork. The warp needs to be strong and stable, commonly cotton or linen. The weft, however, offers vast possibilities. Wool is traditional, offering warmth, a wide color range, and excellent coverage. Silk provides luster and fine detail. Cotton gives a flatter, more graphic quality. Synthetics, rayons, and novelty yarns can be incorporated for specific textural effects or sheens. The thickness of the weft yarn relative to the warp sett also plays a crucial role in the texture and level of detail achievable.
The Rhythmic Process of Building an Image
Weaving a pictorial tapestry is a slow, meditative process. The weaver builds the image incrementally, often working across small sections rather than full horizontal rows, depending on the design. Bobbins or ‘butterflies’ (small bundles) of yarn hold the different weft colors. The weaver passes the correct color weft through the shed (the opening created between raised and lowered warp threads), changes sheds, beats the weft down firmly, and repeats. Decisions about interlocking, hatching, or shaping are made continuously as the image grows upwards from the bottom of the loom. It demands patience, concentration, and a constant dialogue between the original cartoon and the emerging woven structure.
Finishing the Tapestry: Once the weaving is complete, the tension is released, and the tapestry is carefully cut from the loom, leaving sufficient warp length for finishing. These warp ends are typically knotted, sewn back into the tapestry, or otherwise secured to prevent unraveling. Sometimes a binding is sewn around the edges for protection and a neat appearance. Blocking, a process similar to that used for knitted items, may be employed to gently shape the finished tapestry and even out the weave.
Creating pictorial tapestry art is a testament to the enduring power of traditional techniques fused with artistic vision. It transforms simple threads into complex images, rich with color, texture, and narrative potential. From the grand historical narratives woven centuries ago to contemporary abstract explorations, the fundamental techniques of managing discontinuous wefts, joining colors, and shaping forms remain the building blocks of this captivating textile art form.