Lighting isn’t just about making sure your subject is visible; it’s the paintbrush you use to sculpt their features, evoke mood, and tell a story within a single frame. Understanding different lighting patterns unlocks a world of creative possibilities in portrait photography. Among the most foundational and widely recognized setups are Butterfly lighting and Rembrandt lighting. Mastering these two distinct styles provides a solid base from which to explore more complex illumination techniques.
Butterfly Lighting: Glamour and Symmetry
Often called “paramount” lighting, Butterfly lighting gets its more common name from the delicate, butterfly-shaped shadow it creates directly beneath the subject’s nose. This pattern is synonymous with classic Hollywood glamour, beauty shots, and fashion photography. Why? Because it emphasizes high cheekbones, defines the jawline, and generally provides a clean, flattering look, especially for subjects with oval or heart-shaped faces and good skin texture.
Setting it up is relatively straightforward. The key light source (be it a strobe, continuous light, or even the sun if positioned correctly) is placed high and directly in front of the subject, angled down towards their face. Imagine a clock face with the subject at the center; the light would typically be positioned near 12 o’clock, elevated above their head. The height is crucial – too low, and the signature shadow disappears; too high, and the eye sockets can become overly shadowed.
The effect is usually quite symmetrical, casting subtle shadows under the cheekbones and jawline, which helps to sculpt the face. Because the light comes from above and the front, it tends to minimize skin texture, which is another reason for its popularity in beauty work. However, it might not be the most flattering choice for subjects with very prominent noses or deep-set eyes, as the downward angle can exaggerate these features.
Achieving the Butterfly Look
To nail Butterfly lighting, start with your main light positioned high and central. Observe the shadow under the nose – it should be distinct but not overly large or long. If the shadows under the cheeks and chin are too deep for your liking, a reflector placed below the subject’s chest (either handheld or on a stand), angled up towards their face, can bounce light back, softening those darker areas. A silver reflector will add a brighter, cooler fill, while a white one offers a softer, more neutral lift. Gold can add warmth but use it judiciously. The distance of the light source also plays a role; closer lights create softer shadows due to their larger apparent size relative to the subject, while distant lights produce harder, more defined shadows.
Experiment with the exact height and angle. Small adjustments can significantly alter the shape and placement of the shadows. Have your subject tilt their chin slightly up or down to see how it interacts with the light. It’s this interplay that defines the final sculpted look.
Rembrandt Lighting: Drama and Depth
Named after the legendary Dutch painter Rembrandt van Rijn, who often utilized this type of illumination in his portraits, Rembrandt lighting is characterized by a small, inverted triangle of light visible on the subject’s cheek on the shadow side of the face. This pattern is far more dramatic and moodier than Butterfly lighting, creating a strong sense of depth and dimension.
The setup involves placing the key light source to one side of the subject and higher than eye level, typically around a 45-degree angle both horizontally and vertically relative to the subject’s nose. This positioning illuminates one side of the face fully while allowing the other side to fall mostly into shadow, except for that defining triangle of light under the eye. This triangle is the hallmark of true Rembrandt lighting; without it, you simply have short lighting (where the side of the face turned towards the camera is mostly in shadow) or broad lighting (where the side turned towards the camera is mostly lit).
Rembrandt lighting adds a sense of mystery, drama, and character. It works exceptionally well for more rugged or masculine portraits, or any time you want to convey a deeper emotional tone. Because it relies on shadow play, it can accentuate facial texture and structure, which can be either a benefit or a drawback depending on the subject and desired outcome.
Achieving perfect Rembrandt lighting demands careful attention. The signature triangle of light must be distinct, typically no wider than the eye and no longer than the nose, formed by the shadow cast by the nose bridging across to the cheek’s shadow. If this triangle detaches or the eye on the shadow side is completely dark, it’s technically not true Rembrandt lighting. Precision in light placement and subject positioning is absolutely key.
Creating the Rembrandt Effect
Start by placing your main light source off to one side, above eye level. Ask your subject to turn slightly away from the light source. Watch their face carefully as you adjust the light’s position (height, angle, distance) and the subject’s pose. The goal is to see that triangle of light appear on the cheek opposite the light source. It requires patience and small adjustments.
The contrast in Rembrandt lighting can be quite strong. If the shadows are too intense, you can introduce a reflector or a low-powered fill light on the shadow side to lift the detail. A white or silver reflector is common, placed opposite the key light, just outside the frame. Be careful not to add too much fill, or you’ll lose the dramatic effect and wash out the characteristic triangle. Modifiers like softboxes or umbrellas can soften the key light itself, making the transition from highlight to shadow less abrupt while still maintaining the core pattern.
Choosing Your Style
So, when do you opt for the glamour of Butterfly versus the drama of Rembrandt? Consider these points:
- Mood: For bright, airy, glamorous, or classically beautiful portraits, Butterfly is often the go-to. For moody, intense, dramatic, or character-driven shots, Rembrandt excels.
- Subject’s Face: Butterfly flatters high cheekbones and symmetrical features. Rembrandt can add definition and sculpt features, working well even if features aren’t perfectly symmetrical, and it’s often preferred for more masculine looks.
- Desired Effect: Do you want to minimize texture and create a flawless look (Butterfly)? Or do you want to emphasize texture, shape, and dimension (Rembrandt)?
- Context: A corporate headshot might benefit from the clean look of a modified Butterfly setup, while an artistic portrait might call for the depth of Rembrandt.
Don’t Forget Modifiers and Fill: Both Butterfly and Rembrandt setups are starting points. The choice of light modifier (softbox, umbrella, beauty dish, grid) drastically changes the quality of light – soft versus hard. The use and intensity of fill light (from a reflector or another light source) controls the contrast ratio, determining how deep the shadows appear. A high-contrast Rembrandt setup feels very different from one where shadows are gently filled.
Understanding Butterfly and Rembrandt lighting is fundamental for any portrait photographer. They represent two distinct approaches to shaping the face with light. Butterfly lighting offers symmetry and glamour through frontal, high illumination, creating that signature shadow under the nose. Rembrandt lighting provides drama and depth with side lighting that forms a triangle of light on the shadowed cheek. Practice setting up both, observe how minor adjustments change the look, and experiment with reflectors and modifiers. Once you master these foundational patterns, you’ll find yourself more confident and creative in controlling light to capture compelling portraits.
