Imagine a stage where gods and demons clash, heroes embark on epic quests, and ancient stories unfold not through spoken words, but through a vibrant tapestry of colour, movement, and rhythm. This is the world of Kathakali, a classical Indian dance-drama hailing from the lush state of Kerala in South India. It’s more than just dance; it’s a storytelling tradition brought to life by performers whose very appearance is a narrative in itself, thanks to some of the most elaborate makeup and costumes found in any performing art form worldwide.
The Foundation: Storytelling Through Movement
At its core, Kathakali is a powerful medium for narrating stories, primarily drawing from the rich wellspring of Hindu epics like the Mahabharata and the Ramayana, as well as the Puranas. Unlike many theatrical forms, Kathakali performers do not speak or sing. Instead, the narrative is conveyed entirely through sophisticated body language, intricate hand gestures known as mudras, and highly expressive facial movements, particularly of the eyes and eyebrows. The story itself is sung by vocalists positioned to the side of the stage, accompanied by a dynamic percussion ensemble that sets the tempo, mood, and emotional undercurrent of the performance.
This reliance on visual storytelling places immense importance on the performer’s physical presence and, crucially, on the detailed symbolism embedded within their makeup and costumes. These elements are not mere decoration; they are fundamental components of the characterisation, instantly communicating the nature, status, and even the emotional state of the figure being portrayed.
Aharya Abhinaya: The Art of Makeup (Vesham)
The transformation of a Kathakali actor begins hours before the performance, with the painstaking application of makeup, known as Vesham. This is not simply about enhancing features; it’s a ritualistic process that builds a symbolic mask, transforming the actor into the character. The makeup designs are highly codified, with specific colours and patterns representing distinct character types, collectively known as Aharya Abhinaya (expression through adornment).
The Colour Code of Characters
The Vesham follows a strict colour symbolism:
- Pacha (Green): This vibrant green base signifies nobility, divinity, and heroism. It’s used for portraying gods like Krishna and Rama, and virtuous kings like Yudhisthira or Nala. The features are outlined in black, and the lips are painted red, signifying a character embodying righteousness and poise.
- Kathi (Knife): While also having a green base, the Kathi character is distinguished by an upturned, knife-shaped pattern painted in red on the cheeks, often accompanied by white Pachuppu (pith) knobs on the nose and forehead. This makeup denotes characters who are essentially noble or high-born but possess flaws like arrogance, evil intent, or excessive pride. Think of figures like Ravana, the demon king, or Duryodhana, the antagonist of the Mahabharata. The red signifies their underlying aggression or negative traits.
- Thaadi (Beard): This category is further divided by beard colour. Vella Thaadi (White Beard) represents divine or virtuous beings possessing immense power and wisdom, such as Hanuman, the monkey god, or Nandikeshwara. Chuvanna Thaadi (Red Beard) symbolises aggressive, destructive, and power-hungry characters, often demonic figures known for their cruelty. Karutha Thaadi (Black Beard) typically represents forest dwellers, hunters, or aboriginal characters, sometimes with sinister connotations, like Kattalan (hunter).
- Kari (Black): A black base makeup signifies demonesses, fierce huntresses, or characters residing outside the norms of society. They often have exaggerated features painted in white or red, representing their primal or grotesque nature. Figures like Surpanakha (in her demonic form) or Putana wear Kari.
- Minukku (Shining): This makeup style is simpler, using warm yellow, orange, or reddish-yellow tones. It represents gentleness, virtue, and spiritual qualities. It’s used for female characters (heroines, princesses), sages, Brahmins, and messengers. The makeup is less mask-like, allowing for more subtle facial expressions.
The Kathakali makeup tradition is deeply rooted in ancient theatrical practices described in texts like the Natyashastra. The colours and designs are not arbitrary but carry specific symbolic weight understood by the audience. This visual language allows viewers to immediately grasp the fundamental nature of a character upon their entrance.
The Application Process
Applying Kathakali makeup is an art in itself, often performed by specialised artists. The actor typically lies down while the base colours are applied using natural pigments mixed with coconut oil. One of the most distinctive features is the Chutti, a white ridge built up along the jawline and cheeks. This is meticulously crafted using rice paste and lime, applied layer by layer, framing the face and enhancing the mask-like effect. The entire process can take three to four hours, demanding immense patience from both the artist and the performer. The final touch often involves inserting a small eggplant seed (chundappoovu) under the lower eyelids to make the whites of the eyes appear red, adding to the dramatic intensity of the character’s gaze.
Aharya Abhinaya: The Grandeur of Costumes
Complementing the elaborate makeup are the equally stunning Kathakali costumes. They are designed to create a larger-than-life silhouette, adding to the superhuman or epic quality of the characters. The costumes are voluminous and ornate, contributing significantly to the visual spectacle.
Key Costume Elements
- Uduthukettu: This refers to the heavily pleated, layered white skirts worn by most male characters. Numerous pieces of cloth are tied around the waist to create a billowing effect that exaggerates the performer’s movements.
- Jackets and Chest Pieces: Colourful, embellished jackets (often red) are worn over the upper body. Intricate chest plates (Kotalaram) add to the regal or powerful appearance.
- Jewellery: Heavy, ornate jewellery is an integral part of the costume. This includes multiple necklaces (Kazhutharam), armbands (Tolpoottu, Vala), bracelets, and waistbands, often made of wood covered with gold foil and studded with coloured glass or stones.
- Kireetam (Headdress): Perhaps the most striking costume element is the elaborate headdress or crown (Kireetam). Its size and design vary depending on the character type. Noble characters wear large, intricately carved Kireetams adorned with peacock feathers and reflective materials, while demonic characters might wear different, often more fearsome-looking headgear. Female characters and sages wear simpler head coverings or hairstyles.
- Uttariyam: Long scarves draped over the shoulders add to the flow and colour of the costume.
Like the makeup, the costumes are carefully designed to enhance character identity and contribute to the overall grandeur. The sheer weight and bulk of the attire demand considerable strength and skill from the performers to move gracefully.
Beyond Appearance: The Language of Body and Emotion
While makeup and costume create the visual identity, the storytelling truly unfolds through the actor’s physical performance.
Angika Abhinaya (Body Movements)
This encompasses the entire range of bodily expression. Mudras, the symbolic hand gestures, form a complex language capable of conveying specific words, objects, ideas, and emotions. There are hundreds of mudras, requiring years of dedicated study to master. Alongside mudras, the performers use precise footwork (Kalashams), rhythmic body movements, and specific postures that align with the character and the narrative beat, often synchronised with the powerful percussion.
Mukha Abhinaya (Facial Expressions)
The face, framed by the elaborate makeup, becomes a canvas for intense emotional expression. Kathakali training involves rigorous exercises to gain control over every facial muscle, especially the eyes, eyebrows, and cheeks. The ability to convey subtle nuances of emotion (Rasas) like love, anger, sorrow, fear, or wonder through facial expressions alone is a hallmark of a skilled Kathakali actor.
Sattvika Abhinaya (Emotional Resonance)
This refers to the actor’s ability to genuinely embody and project the emotional state of the character. It goes beyond mere physical mimicry; the actor must connect deeply with the character’s inner world and convey that emotional truth to the audience, making the performance resonate on a deeper level.
The Supporting Soundscape
The visual drama is supported and amplified by a distinctive musical ensemble. The lead singer (Ponnani) narrates the story through verses (Padams), while a supporting singer (Sinkidi) often repeats the lines. The percussion section is vital, providing the rhythmic structure and emotional intensity. The main instruments include the Chenda, a powerful cylindrical drum played with sticks, known for its thunderous sound; the Maddalam, a barrel-shaped drum played with the hands, providing intricate rhythmic patterns; the Chengila, a brass gong struck by the lead singer to keep time; and the Ilathalam, metallic cymbals that add sharpness and accentuation to the rhythm.
Kathakali performances traditionally lasted all night, beginning at dusk and concluding at dawn. While modern performances are often shorter adaptations, the art form retains its intensity and immersive quality. The combination of dramatic makeup, vibrant costumes, expressive acting, and powerful music creates an unforgettable theatrical experience.
Dedication and Legacy
Mastering Kathakali requires immense dedication. Training traditionally begins at a young age, often around 8-10 years old, and involves rigorous physical conditioning, extensive practice of mudras and facial expressions, and deep immersion in the epic stories. This demanding training ensures the preservation and continuation of this intricate art form.
Kathakali stands as a testament to the power of non-verbal storytelling and the profound impact of visual symbolism in theatre. The elaborate makeup and costumes are not superficial additions but integral elements that transform performers into epic characters, immediately conveying their essence to the audience. It is a unique fusion of dance, drama, music, and artistry, offering a window into India’s rich cultural and mythological heritage through a truly spectacular visual language. Watching a Kathakali performance is an encounter with a living tradition where every colour, gesture, and rhythm tells a story.
