Hardanger embroidery, a captivating form of counted thread work originating from the Hardangerfjord region of Norway, offers a unique blend of structure and delicate beauty. It’s often mistaken for lace due to its intricate openwork, but it is fundamentally an embroidery technique worked on fabric, where threads are strategically cut and withdrawn to create stunning geometric patterns. This traditional craft transforms plain evenweave fabric into heirloom-quality pieces through a methodical yet deeply rewarding process.
At its heart, Hardanger is about precision and rhythm. Unlike free-form embroidery, every stitch is counted, relying on the consistent weave of the fabric. The characteristic look comes from blocks of satin stitches, known as Kloster blocks, which outline shapes. Within these shapes, specific fabric threads are carefully snipped and removed, leaving a grid of remaining threads. These threads are then embellished with decorative stitches, creating bars, loops, and intricate fillings that form the lace-like appearance.
The Essential Toolkit for Hardanger
Embarking on a Hardanger project requires specific materials suited to its unique demands. Choosing the right supplies from the outset makes the learning process smoother and ensures a beautiful finished product.
Fabric Choice is Key
The foundation of any Hardanger piece is the fabric. It must be an evenweave fabric, meaning it has the same number of threads per inch horizontally and vertically. This precise grid is crucial for accurate counting. Traditional choices include:
- Linen: Often favored for its traditional look and beautiful drape, linen evenweaves (like 25, 28, or 32 count) are classic choices.
- Cotton Evenweave: Fabrics like Hardanger fabric (typically 22 count) or Lugana (a cotton/viscose blend) are excellent, often easier for beginners due to their clear weave structure.
- Other Evenweaves: Blends or other fiber evenweaves can work, provided the thread count is consistent in both directions.
The fabric count (threads per inch) influences the scale of the finished design. Lower counts (like 22) result in larger stitches and a bolder look, often easier for learners. Higher counts (32+) create finer, more delicate work.
Threads for Structure and Sheen
Pearl cotton (Perle cotton) is the standard thread for Hardanger. Its tightly twisted structure gives excellent definition to the stitches and a lovely sheen. Typically, two weights are used within the same project:
- Pearl Cotton Size 5: A thicker thread, generally used for the structural Kloster blocks and sometimes for heavier woven bars or decorative elements.
- Pearl Cotton Size 8: A medium-weight thread, often used for Kloster blocks (especially on finer fabrics), wrapping bars, and many decorative fillings.
- Pearl Cotton Size 12: The finest weight, primarily used for delicate fillings like needle lace, dove’s eyes, and picots, especially on higher count fabrics.
Matching thread weight to fabric count is important. A common guideline is Size 5 for Kloster blocks and Size 8 for wrapping on 22-count fabric, while on 28-count, Size 8 might be used for blocks and Size 12 for wrapping and details.
Needles and Scissors
You’ll need tapestry needles, which have a blunt tip and a large eye suitable for pearl cotton. The blunt tip navigates between fabric threads without splitting them. Use a size appropriate for your thread (e.g., size 22 or 24 for Size 5/8 thread, size 26 for Size 12). Most crucial, however, are your scissors. You need extremely sharp, fine-pointed embroidery scissors. This cannot be overstated. The precision cutting required for Hardanger demands scissors that can snip single fabric threads cleanly and accurately right next to the stitched blocks.
Mastering the Core Techniques
Hardanger embroidery follows a logical sequence of steps. Understanding each stage is vital for success.
Step 1: Stitching the Kloster Blocks
Kloster blocks are the cornerstone of Hardanger. These are groups of straight satin stitches worked over a specific number of fabric threads, typically four. Each block usually consists of five parallel satin stitches laid side-by-side, covering a square area (four threads by four threads). These blocks are worked methodically, following a chart or pattern, to outline the shapes that will later involve cutwork. Counting accurately is paramount here; miscounted blocks will disrupt the entire pattern and make cutting impossible.
The blocks serve two purposes: they define the design visually, and more importantly, they secure the fabric threads that will remain after cutting. The tension should be firm enough to hold threads securely but not so tight as to distort the fabric. Consistency in stitch length and tension across all blocks creates a neat, professional appearance.
Step 2: The Point of No Return – Cutting Threads
This is the step that often intimidates newcomers, but with care, it becomes a satisfying part of the process. Only after all relevant Kloster blocks outlining an area are complete can you begin cutting. Using your sharp, fine-tipped scissors, you carefully snip the designated fabric threads inside the shapes defined by the Kloster blocks. The pattern dictates exactly which threads to cut. Typically, you cut groups of four threads, leaving groups of four threads intact, following the “cut four, leave four” principle that aligns with the size of the Kloster blocks.
Precision is absolutely critical. Cut only the threads specified in the pattern. Cut threads cleanly right next to the edge of the Kloster blocks, being careful not to accidentally snip the securing stitches of the blocks themselves or the threads that are meant to remain. Working in good light and taking your time is essential.
Use Extremely Sharp Scissors: Your embroidery scissors must have very fine, sharp points for Hardanger cutwork. Dull or thick-tipped scissors risk damaging adjacent threads or Kloster block stitches. Always cut precisely next to the securing stitches, never into them. Double-check which threads to cut before making the snip.
Step 3: Withdrawing the Cut Threads
Once the designated threads are snipped at both ends of a section, they need to be removed. Using your needle or tweezers, gently pull the cut threads out from under the threads that remain. These remaining threads, now unsecured in the cut areas, form a grid or web. This grid becomes the foundation for the decorative stitching that follows. Pull the threads out carefully to avoid distorting the remaining grid.
Adding the Decorative Flair: Filling Stitches
With the open spaces created and the grid of remaining threads established, the truly decorative part of Hardanger begins. Various techniques are used to wrap, weave, and embellish these threads.
Woven Bars and Wrapped Bars
The most fundamental filling technique involves securing the groups of remaining fabric threads (usually groups of four) to create stable bars across the open spaces. This is typically done with the finer pearl cotton (Size 8 or 12).
- Wrapped Bars: The needle wraps the thread around a bundle of fabric threads without piercing the fabric itself. This creates a smooth, rounded bar.
- Woven Bars: The needle passes over and under the individual threads within the bundle, creating a flatter, textured bar that resembles weaving.
These bars stabilize the openwork structure and form the framework for further embellishment. They can be worked vertically, horizontally, and sometimes diagonally.
Adding Sparkle with Picots
Picots are small decorative loops added to the woven or wrapped bars, lending an extra touch of delicacy and visual interest. They are usually formed by creating a small loop of thread during the wrapping or weaving process and securing it with a tiny anchoring stitch. Adding picots breaks up the straight lines of the bars and enhances the lace-like feel.
Needleweaving and Fillings
More complex patterns can be created within the open spaces by needleweaving techniques. Instead of just wrapping bars, the thread is woven around the bars or directly into the open squares of the grid.
- Dove’s Eyes: Small eyelet-like stitches often worked at the intersection of bars.
- Spider Web (or Wheel): A circular woven pattern often filling a square opening where threads have been cut in both directions.
- Greek Cross Filling: A specific pattern woven around bars to create a cross shape.
- Needle Lace Edgings: Sometimes intricate buttonhole stitch variations are worked along the edges of cutwork areas or attached to bars.
These fillings require careful counting and manipulation of the thread to build up the desired pattern within the negative space.
Beyond Cutwork: Surface Stitches
While cutwork is the defining feature, Hardanger designs sometimes incorporate other surface embroidery stitches for accents. Eyelet stitches (worked over a hole punched with an awl or by gathering threads), simple satin stitch motifs, lazy daisy flowers, or even French knots might be added to the solid fabric areas surrounding the cutwork to complement the design.
Designing and Using Hardanger
Traditional Hardanger designs are typically geometric and symmetrical, reflecting the counted-thread nature of the technique. Stars, squares, diamonds, crosses, and intricate repeating borders are common motifs. While white thread on white or cream fabric (whitework) is classic, modern interpretations embrace color, using colored threads or stitching on colored evenweave fabrics.
Hardanger embroidery graces a wide variety of items:
- Table Linens: Tablecloths, runners, placemats, and napkins are traditional applications.
- Home Decor: Curtains, cushion covers, lampshades, and bell pulls.
- Clothing Embellishments: Collars, cuffs, yokes on blouses or traditional costumes (Bunad).
- Small Keepsakes: Pincushions, ornaments, scissor fobs, bookmarks.
Tips for Beginners
Starting Hardanger can feel daunting, but breaking it down helps:
- Start Small: Choose a simple design like a coaster or bookmark with limited cutting.
- Use Quality Materials: Good fabric, thread, and especially sharp scissors make a huge difference.
- Count, Count, Count: Accuracy in stitching Kloster blocks is fundamental. Use magnification if needed.
- Practice Cutting: Before cutting your main project, practice snipping threads on a scrap piece of evenweave fabric where you’ve stitched a few practice blocks.
- Follow Instructions: Use a clear pattern and read the steps carefully, especially regarding which threads to cut.
Hardanger embroidery is more than just a stitching technique; it’s a journey into precision, patience, and the creation of intricate beauty from simple cloth and thread. Watching the geometric patterns emerge and the delicate openwork take shape is immensely satisfying. While it demands care, particularly during the cutting stage, the stunning results are a testament to the enduring appeal of this Norwegian counted thread art form.
