Tired of the chemical smell that lingers long after a painting project? Concerned about volatile organic compounds (VOCs) off-gassing into your living space? You’re not alone. Many people are searching for healthier, more sustainable ways to add color and personality to their homes. The good news is, you don’t need complex chemistry or expensive boutique products. Humans have been making paint from natural materials for millennia, and you can too, right in your own kitchen.
Making your own natural paints is not only incredibly rewarding but also opens up a world of unique textures and subtle hues that synthetic paints often struggle to replicate. These paints are generally breathable, meaning they allow moisture to pass through, which can be beneficial for walls, especially in older homes. Plus, they are often biodegradable and derived from renewable resources, making them a much kinder choice for the planet. Let’s explore some simple recipes you can try.
Understanding the Basics: Binders and Pigments
Before diving into recipes, it helps to understand the fundamental components of any paint:
- Binder: This is the glue that holds the pigment particles together and makes the paint stick to the surface. Common natural binders include milk protein (casein), flour paste, eggs, natural oils, and clay.
- Pigment: This provides the color. Natural pigments can be sourced from minerals (like ochres and clays), plants (though these can sometimes fade), and even spices from your pantry.
- Filler (Optional): Sometimes added to increase bulk, improve texture, or enhance opacity. Chalk, fine sand, or marble dust can be used.
- Solvent/Carrier: This makes the paint liquid and workable. For most homemade water-based paints, the solvent is simply water.
The magic lies in balancing these components to achieve the desired consistency, color, and durability.
Recipe 1: Classic Milk Paint (Casein Paint)
Milk paint is one of the oldest known paint types, favoured for its velvety matte finish and durability once cured. It works best on porous surfaces like raw wood, plaster, or drywall.
Ingredients:
- 1 part dry milk powder (non-instant skim milk works well)
- 1 part water (to mix with milk powder)
- 1 part hydrated lime (calcium hydroxide – often called ‘slaked lime’ or ‘builder’s lime’)
- Approx. 1-2 parts water (to mix with lime and adjust consistency)
- Natural pigments (earth pigments like ochres, siennas, umbers work best)
Instructions:
Step 1: Mix the Milk Base. Gradually add the first part of water to the milk powder, stirring constantly until you have a smooth, lump-free consistency, like thin yogurt. Let it sit for about 15-30 minutes to allow the powder to fully hydrate.
Step 2: Prepare the Lime. In a separate container, carefully mix the hydrated lime with the second amount of water. Start with a 1:1 ratio and add more water slowly until you get a creamy paste. Always add lime to water, not water to lime, and wear gloves and eye protection, as hydrated lime is caustic.
Step 3: Combine Binder Components. Slowly pour the lime paste into the milk mixture, stirring continuously. A chemical reaction occurs as the lime interacts with the casein protein in the milk, creating calcium caseinate – the binder. The mixture might thicken slightly.
Step 4: Add Pigment. Gradually stir in your chosen pigment(s). Start with a small amount and add more until you reach the desired shade. It’s helpful to make a small test batch of pigment paste first by mixing the dry pigment with a tiny bit of water.
Step 5: Adjust Consistency. Thin the paint with a little more water if needed to reach a brushable consistency, similar to conventional latex paint.
Step 6: Strain (Optional but Recommended). Strain the paint through cheesecloth or an old stocking to remove any remaining lumps for a smoother finish.
Notes on Milk Paint:
- Milk paint needs to be used relatively quickly, typically within a few hours to a day, as it contains organic materials that can spoil. Mix only what you need for the day.
- It adheres best to porous surfaces. On previously painted or non-porous surfaces, you might need a bonding agent or primer, or significant sanding.
- The colour often looks lighter when wet and deepens as it dries. Apply 2-3 thin coats rather than one thick coat.
- Clean up is easy with soap and water.
Handle With Care: Hydrated lime (calcium hydroxide) is alkaline and caustic. Always wear gloves, eye protection, and a dust mask when handling the dry powder or wet mixture. Ensure good ventilation during mixing and application. Keep it away from children and pets.
Recipe 2: Simple Flour Paint
Flour paint is an extremely economical and straightforward paint, often used historically for temporary applications or interior walls where high durability isn’t the primary concern. It creates a very flat, matte finish.
Ingredients:
- 1 part white flour
- 1 part cold water
- 3 parts boiling water
- Natural pigments
- Optional: 1 tablespoon linseed oil per litre (quart) of paint for slight water resistance
Instructions:
Step 1: Make the Flour Paste. In a saucepan, whisk the flour and cold water together until completely smooth, ensuring there are no lumps.
Step 2: Cook the Paste. Gradually whisk in the boiling water. Place the saucepan over medium heat and bring the mixture to a gentle simmer, stirring constantly. Cook for about 3-5 minutes, or until the mixture thickens into a translucent paste, similar to thin wallpaper glue.
Step 3: Cool Down. Remove the paste from the heat and let it cool completely. It will thicken further as it cools.
Step 4: Add Pigment (and Optional Oil). Once cool, stir in your chosen pigments until the color is evenly distributed. If using, stir in the linseed oil now.
Step 5: Adjust Consistency. Thin the paint with a little cold water if it’s too thick to brush easily.
Notes on Flour Paint:
- Like milk paint, flour paint is perishable and should be used within a day or two. Store leftovers in the fridge.
- It’s best suited for absorbent surfaces like paper, cardboard, raw wood, or plaster.
- It’s not very water-resistant (unless oil is added, which helps slightly) and isn’t ideal for high-moisture areas or surfaces that need frequent washing.
- It provides a lovely, chalky, rustic finish.
Recipe 3: Basic Egg Tempera
Egg tempera is a classic artist’s paint, known for its luminosity and durability. While traditionally used for fine art, a simpler version can be made for small decorative projects or accents. It dries very quickly to a hard, durable finish.
Ingredients:
- 1 fresh egg yolk
- Distilled water
- Natural pigments (finely ground)
Instructions:
Step 1: Separate the Yolk. Carefully separate the egg yolk from the white. Gently roll the yolk on a paper towel to remove any remaining white and the chalazae (the white stringy bits). Carefully pierce the yolk sac and drain the liquid yolk into a small jar, discarding the sac membrane.
Step 2: Add Water. Add an equal volume of distilled water to the egg yolk and mix gently but thoroughly. This is your binder.
Step 3: Prepare Pigment Paste. On a non-porous surface (like a glass palette or tile), place a small amount of your finely ground pigment. Add a few drops of distilled water and work it into a thick paste with a palette knife or spatula.
Step 4: Combine Binder and Pigment. Add a small amount of the egg yolk binder to the pigment paste and mix thoroughly until you achieve a smooth, paint-like consistency. Aim for roughly equal parts pigment paste and binder, but adjust as needed.
Notes on Egg Tempera:
- Egg tempera must be made fresh and used immediately, as the egg yolk spoils quickly.
- It dries extremely fast, so work in small sections and apply it in thin layers using fine brush strokes (often cross-hatched).
- It creates a durable, slightly luminous, semi-matte finish.
- Best suited for rigid surfaces like wood panels prepared with gesso, or for decorative painting on furniture or walls.
- Clean brushes immediately with cold water (hot water can cook the egg).
Recipe 4: Earthy Clay Paint
Clay itself can act as both a binder and a pigment (and filler!). This creates beautifully textured, earthy paints.
Ingredients:
- Fine clay powder (source locally if possible, or buy pottery clay – ensure it’s non-toxic)
- Water
- Optional: Flour paste (see Recipe 2, Step 1-3) or Methyl Cellulose (wallpaper paste) for extra binding
- Optional: Fine sand for added texture
Instructions:
Step 1: Sift the Clay. Sift the dry clay powder through a fine mesh screen to remove any large particles, rocks, or organic debris.
Step 2: Mix with Water. Gradually add water to the sifted clay, mixing thoroughly until you achieve a thick, creamy consistency, like pancake batter or sour cream. Let it sit for at least 30 minutes (or even overnight) to allow the clay particles to fully absorb the water.
Step 3: Add Optional Binder/Texture. If desired, mix in a small amount of cooled flour paste or prepared methyl cellulose to improve adhesion and durability. You can also stir in fine sand at this stage for a more textured finish.
Step 4: Adjust Consistency. Add more water if the paint is too thick, or more clay powder if it’s too thin.
Step 5: Strain (Optional). For a smoother finish, you can strain the mixture through cheesecloth.
Notes on Clay Paint:
- Clay paints offer beautiful, natural colours inherent to the clay itself. You can also add other natural pigments for different shades.
- They create a very matte, breathable finish with a subtle texture.
- Best applied to porous surfaces like plaster, drywall, or earthen walls.
- Like flour paint, it’s not highly water-resistant and is best for interior applications.
- Use within a few days, storing leftovers covered in the fridge.
Sourcing and Preparing Natural Pigments
The heart of your natural paint is its colour. Finding pigments can be an adventure!
- Earth Pigments: Ochres (yellow, red, brown), Siennas (yellow-brown, reddish-brown), Umbers (dark brown) are iron oxide-rich clays and minerals. You can sometimes find these naturally (check local regulations!), buy them from art suppliers, or pottery suppliers.
- Clays: Different types of clay offer various colours – white (kaolin), grey, tan, red.
- Spices: Turmeric (bright yellow), Paprika (red-orange), Cinnamon (brown) can work, but may fade over time and aren’t lightfast for long-term wall applications. Best for temporary projects or crafts.
- Plant-Based: Making stable, lightfast pigments from plants is complex. Many plant colours fade quickly in light or react with binders. Dried, powdered indigo (blue) or madder root (red) are traditional but require specific processing. Generally, mineral pigments are more reliable for paint.
- Charcoal/Soot: Finely ground charcoal or collected soot makes black pigment.
Preparation: Pigments must be ground as finely as possible. Use a mortar and pestle for best results. The finer the grind, the smoother the paint and the stronger the colour. Always wear a dust mask when grinding pigments.
Always Test First! Before painting a large area, always test your homemade paint on an inconspicuous spot or a sample piece of the material you intend to paint. Check for adhesion, colour when dry (it often changes!), coverage, and overall appearance. This step prevents potentially costly or time-consuming mistakes.
Application and Finishing
Applying natural paints often requires a slightly different approach than conventional paints.
- Surface Prep: Ensure surfaces are clean, dry, and free of grease. Porous surfaces are usually best.
- Application: Use natural bristle brushes. Apply thin coats, allowing each coat to dry thoroughly before applying the next. Multiple thin coats are better than one thick coat.
- Drying Time: Natural paints can take longer to dry and fully cure than synthetic paints. Allow ample drying time, especially in humid conditions.
- Sealing (Optional): For added durability or water resistance, especially for milk or flour paint, you can apply a natural sealer once the paint is fully cured (allow several days to a week). Options include beeswax polish, hemp oil, or tung oil (test for colour changes first).
Creating your own natural paints is a journey back to basics, connecting you with raw materials and traditional techniques. It requires a bit of experimentation and patience, but the result is a healthier home environment filled with unique character and the satisfaction of having made it yourself. Enjoy the process!
