Moving beyond the simple stringing or ladder stitch opens a universe of texture, structure, and intricate design in the world of bead weaving. For dedicated beaders seeking to elevate their craft, mastering advanced off-loom stitches is the key. Among the most versatile and foundational of these are Peyote stitch, Herringbone stitch (also known as Ndebele), and Right Angle Weave (RAW). Each possesses unique characteristics, lending itself to different effects and applications, and understanding their nuances allows for truly sophisticated bead art.
Peyote Stitch: The Beaded Tapestry
Often one of the first “advanced” stitches learned, Peyote is beloved for its ability to create smooth, strong, and graphically detailed beadwork. Imagine building a tiny, flexible brick wall, but with beads. That’s the essence of Peyote stitch, where each new bead added nestles snugly into the space, or dip, created by two beads in the row below it. The beads naturally offset, creating a very stable and somewhat rigid fabric.
The basic forms are Even Count Peyote and Odd Count Peyote. Even count is slightly simpler to start and creates straight edges easily, involving a straightforward back-and-forth path. Odd count requires a small thread turn technique at the end of every other row, making it slightly more complex but equally versatile. These flat variations are perfect canvases for patterns, charts, and even intricate pictorial designs, often utilizing cylinder beads like Miyuki Delicas or Toho Treasures for their uniformity, which allows the pattern to shine without distortion from bead shape irregularities.
Exploring Peyote Variations
The true power of Peyote unfolds in its numerous variations:
- Two-Drop or Three-Drop Peyote: Instead of picking up one bead at a time, you pick up two or three. This speeds up the process significantly and creates a slightly different texture, excellent for wider bands or larger projects where fine detail is less critical.
- Circular Peyote: Worked around a central ring of beads, this technique creates flat circular elements. It’s fundamental for making mandalas, medallion centers, or bezels for flat stones. Increasing beads systematically in each round allows the circle to lie flat.
- Tubular Peyote: This involves joining the first row into a ring and then working continuously in a spiral. It creates seamless tubes perfect for beaded ropes, necklace bails, or covering objects like pens or dowels. Even and odd count principles still apply but adapted for working in the round.
- Sculptural Peyote: This is where Peyote truly becomes three-dimensional. By strategically increasing and decreasing beads within the weave, you can create curves, ruffles, waves, points, and organic forms. Beaders use this to create intricate floral components, abstract shapes, and dimensional jewelry pieces that move beyond flat planes.
Peyote’s strength lies in its density and ability to hold a shape. It’s less drapey than Herringbone or RAW but offers unparalleled control for detailed flatwork and structured forms. Think tapestry bracelets, amulet bags, sculptural pendants, and vessel embellishments.
Herringbone Stitch (Ndebele): Supple Chevrons
Named after the Ndebele people of South Africa known for their stunning beadwork, Herringbone stitch (or Ndebele stitch) is easily recognizable by its distinct chevron or ‘V’ pattern. Instead of beads sitting side-by-side or nested like Peyote, beads in Herringbone stack up in slanted columns of two. Each stitch involves passing through a bead from the previous row and adding two new beads, then passing back down through the second-to-last bead added before moving to the next stitch. This creates a wonderfully supple and flexible fabric with excellent drape.
Like Peyote, Herringbone can be worked flat or in a tubular form. Flat Herringbone creates beautifully textured strips perfect for straps or bracelet bands that conform comfortably to the wrist. Tubular Herringbone results in a flexible beaded rope that has a characteristic subtle twist or spiral, depending on the beads used and tension. It’s faster to work up than tubular peyote for creating ropes of similar diameter.
Advanced Herringbone Techniques
Beyond the basics, Herringbone offers exciting possibilities:
- Increasing and Decreasing: Adding or skipping stitches allows for shaping, creating flared edges, V-shapes (necklaces), or tapering tubes. This is key for tailoring the beadwork to specific forms.
- Spiral Herringbone: By using different colors or sizes of beads strategically within the two-bead pickup, you can create striking spiral patterns within the tube or flat piece.
- Twisted Tubular Herringbone: A variation where the thread path is intentionally altered to enhance the natural twist, creating a more pronounced rope-like effect.
- Combining with Other Stitches: Herringbone’s edges can sometimes be a bit open; combining it with edging stitches like Peyote or picots can provide a cleaner finish or decorative flair.
Herringbone shines when flexibility and drape are desired. Its unique texture adds visual interest even without complex color patterns. It’s ideal for necklaces, lariats, comfortable bracelet bands, and adding flowing elements to larger constructions.
Important Note on Tension: Consistent thread tension is crucial for all bead weaving, but especially noticeable in stitches like Peyote and Herringbone. Too loose, and the beadwork will be floppy with visible thread. Too tight, and it can buckle or become overly stiff, losing the desired drape, particularly with Herringbone.
Right Angle Weave (RAW): Lacy Structure and Dimensionality
Right Angle Weave offers a completely different structure and aesthetic compared to Peyote and Herringbone. Instead of creating a dense fabric, RAW builds an open, lace-like network. The fundamental unit in basic RAW consists of four beads connected in a square or diamond shape, with the thread exiting at a right angle from where it entered the unit. Each new unit is typically built off one side of an existing unit, sharing one bead.
This construction method results in a beadwork that is inherently flexible in multiple directions, not just along one axis like flat Peyote or Herringbone. It has an airy, almost Crystalline quality, especially when using translucent or crystal beads. Because the thread path travels through beads multiple times and in different directions, RAW can be slightly more challenging to master initially, and keeping track of the thread path is key.
The World of RAW Variations
RAW is perhaps the most adaptable stitch for creating three-dimensional structures:
- Flat RAW: Creates a flexible, grid-like fabric. While it can be used for bands, its strength lies in its ability to curve smoothly.
- Tubular RAW: Forms very flexible, open tubes. Unlike the denser tubes of Peyote or Herringbone, tubular RAW has a distinctly net-like appearance.
- Cubic Right Angle Weave (CRAW): This is a game-changer. CRAW creates incredibly strong, self-supporting, yet flexible structures by building interconnected cubes instead of flat squares. CRAW ropes are substantial and have a unique architectural look. It’s excellent for structural elements, bangles, and complex forms.
- Prismatic Right Angle Weave (PRAW): Builds upon CRAW principles but uses units with more than four beads (e.g., five or six), creating multifaceted tubular structures.
- Layered or Embellished RAW: The open spaces in RAW invite embellishment. Beads can be easily added into the centers of the units or layered on top, creating highly textured and decorative surfaces.
- RAW Bezels: The structure of RAW makes it exceptionally well-suited for creating custom bezels around cabochons, rivolis, or other focal components. It can be shaped snugly around irregular objects.
Choose RAW when you need flexibility in all directions, an open and airy look, or a foundation for dimensional work and bezelling. It excels in creating intricate necklaces, complex structural components for larger pieces, detailed bezels, and unique 3D beaded objects.
Synergy and Artistry: Combining Stitches
The true artistry often emerges when a beader understands the distinct personalities of these stitches and begins to combine them within a single piece. Imagine a bracelet with a firm, patterned Peyote band leading to a flexible Herringbone section for drape, culminating in a focal element securely encased in a RAW bezel. Or consider a sculptural piece where a CRAW framework provides the underlying structure, embellished with softer Peyote curves and perhaps fringed with delicate Herringbone strands.
Verified Stitch Properties: Peyote stitch generally creates the firmest, densest fabric, ideal for patterns. Herringbone offers excellent flexibility and drape with a characteristic ‘V’ texture. Right Angle Weave produces an open, lacy structure that is flexible in multiple directions and excels at dimensional work and bezelling.
Understanding how increases and decreases work in each stitch allows for seamless transitions. Knowing the typical drape or stiffness helps in planning how a piece will wear or hang. Experimentation is vital. Sometimes the “rules” are meant to be bent, and unexpected combinations yield the most exciting results. Use Peyote for structure, Herringbone for flow, and RAW for intricate connections and dimensionality.
Materials Matter
While skill is paramount, materials play a role. Cylinder beads (like Delicas) are often preferred for Peyote patterns for their uniformity. Round seed beads (like Toho or Miyuki rounds) work beautifully in Herringbone and RAW, allowing the stitch structure itself to create the texture. Thread choice also impacts the final piece; stiffer threads like FireLine offer structure and abrasion resistance, favoured for Peyote and RAW bezels, while softer nylon threads like Nymo can enhance the drape of Herringbone, though they may require more conditioning and careful tensioning.
Embarking on the Advanced Path
Mastering Peyote, Herringbone, and Right Angle Weave opens doors to incredible creative potential in bead weaving. Each stitch offers a different voice – the graphic precision of Peyote, the supple flow of Herringbone, the airy structure of RAW. Learning their variations like CRAW, tubular forms, and sculptural techniques provides an extensive toolkit for translating imagination into tangible, wearable art. It requires patience, practice, and a willingness to experiment, but the reward is the ability to create beadwork with depth, complexity, and personal expression far beyond the basics.
